Chinese Five Spice Powder

Chinese five spice powder is an essential spice in many recipes. If you have no dietary limitations, it is certainly easiest to purchase it from your local grocery store. However, if you are on a FODMAP diet, you will need to make your own. Five spice powder is made from cinnamon, cloves, star anise, pepper, and fennel, and fennel is off limits. However, you can just substitute the fennel with anise seed. Yes, this makes it a four spice powder, but it works just fine!

1  teaspoon ground cinnamon
1  teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon anise seed
1  teaspoons ground star anise (grind the entire "star")
1  teaspoon ground pepper

1.  It is best to use the freshest spices. If possible, grind each spice in a coffee grinder separately, mix the proper amounts together, and then grind altogether one last time.

2.  Store in a cool dry place in an airtight container.

Hoisin Sauce

Hoisin Sauce is a traditional Chinese dipping sauce. It is made with soy bean paste or black bean paste, vinegar, garlic, honey or molasses, sesame seed, and varying amounts of Chinese hot sauce. Nowadays it is fairly easy to find in the supermarket and well worth the purchase. In fact, if you are looking for a gluten free hoisin sauce, the Dynasty brand is by far the best. However, hoisin sauce poses several problems for a FODMAP diet. Not only the wheat, but also the soy bean, black bean, honey, molasses, and garlic are off limits. This particular recipe is a reasonable attempt at a hoisin sauce that is suitable for a FODMAP diet.

Ingredients (makes 1/2 cup)

4 tablespoons soy sauce (gluten free)
2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
4 tablespoons maple syrup or maltose (preferred)
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon tahini
2-1/2 teaspoons rice (or white) vinegar
1/4 teaspoon star anise, ground
chiles or hot sauce to desired heat

Mix together all of the ingredients, with the exception of the hot sauce. Taste and adjust if necessary in order to reach the perfect flavor and consistency.  Add hot sauce to taste.

Peking Duck Recipe

Pekin Duck is a delicious treat that is sometimes difficult to find and nearly impossible to make at home. Some say that you can't find the real thing outside of China, which may be partially true. The Chinese raise their ducklings for this very purpose and they tend to have more fat and attain crispier skin. Moreover, they are ordinarily roasted over an open flame in a traditional duck oven. What we lack in the quality and breed of duck, as well the style of oven, we must make up in spices and modified techniques. And what is more, traditional pekin duck involves many ingredients that are not suitable for my family's particular dietary restrictions (i.e., FODMAP). This makes for a challenge, but it is one that is highly rewarding. 

Marinade

6     tablespoons hoisin sauce (FODMAP Hoisin Sauce)
3     tablespoons sugar
1.5  tablespoons five spice powder (FODMAP Five Spice)
1.5  tablespoons white pepper
1.5  tablespoons salt
3     tablespoons ginger powder
3     tablespoons garlic greens, minced
1.5  tablespoons ground mandarin orange peel. You may dry your own peels
       and grind them in a coffee grinder
6     green onion, cut to 5-inch pieces (FODMAP – the green portion only)
4     slices fresh ginger, peeled

Additional Ingredients

1  5-6 pound Pekin duck (with head and feet intact if available)
10-15 whole star anise
1        slice of ginger
1        tablespoon licorice root (small handful)
Sev.   large pieces of dried citrus peel
2        cups Chinese red vinegar
1        tablespoon lemon juice
1        container maltose (17.6 oz)

2        cups hot water

Day 1

1.  Using an air compressor set to a moderate psi, pump air under the skin through a slit made in the duck's neck. The duck's skin should blow up like a balloon, stretching out and separating from the fat that lies underneath. It you are unable to find a duck with its head and neck still intact, you may still do this, but it will take a little more work getting air between the skin and the layer of fat. Make sure the air goes all the way down into the thighs, legs, and back. Likewise, if you do not have an air compressor, you may use a bicycle pump. Naturally, it will be more work, but not impossible. Eventually we will be letting the duck dry overnight in the refrigerator. Separating the skin from the fat will allow the skin to crisp during cooking.

2.  Cut off the wings and the feet. Clean and rinse the duck's stomach cavity.  Then mix together the hoisin sauce, sugar, five spice powder, white pepper, salt, and mandarin orange peel. Put the mixture into the duck, rubbing it into the sides of the cavity. Also place the aromatics, the green onions and slices of ginger, into the cavity. Then tightly sow up the cavity until none of the marinade can leak out. You may do this with a skewer. Start at the base of the cavity and slowly weave together the sides of the cavity.

3.  Place the duck uncovered, belly side down, in the refrigerator on a wire rack for 24 hours. This will allow the duck to marinade and for the skin to dry out.

Day 2

1.  Dissolve the maltose in the 2 cups of hot water. The maltose is very hard and sticky and therefore needs to be made into a more manageable form. Then add the vinegar, which will help dry out the skin,  and the lemon juice. Set aside and cool to room temperature.

2.  Meanwhile, using a large pot or large wok, boil 1-2 gallons of water. Add the licorice root, star anise, ginger, and dried citrus peel (this can be from any citrus, even the leftover mandarin peels). Boil for 15-20 minutes until the water changes color.

3.  Using tongs or a hook to hold onto the duck, set it in the boiling aromatic water. This will both tighten up and flavor the duck's skin. Set the duck in the water, holding it with one hand and ladling the water over its back with the other hand. If your duck's neck and head have been removed, be careful not to allow liquid into the neck cavity. You are not trying to boil or cook the duck, so continually turn it while ladling the mixture over it. The aromatics will give the skin of the duck its characteristic flavor. Do this for about 2 minutes.

4.  Over a large pan to catch the drippings, ladle the maltose mixture over the duck a little bit at a time until the entire duck has been coated and the entire mixture has been used. The maltose will give the duck's skin its characteristically sweet flavor and golden color.

5.  Hang the duck in a cool space, or set in the refrigerator on a wire rack so that it is open to the air on all sides, for 5-24 hours. The skin should be dry, slightly darkened, and slightly rubbering or springy.







To Cook

1.  Ideally, you will want to find a way to hang the duck from the upper rack. In a normal home oven, you can situate the rack above the uppermost position. This allows just enough room for a 5-6 pound duck. To minimize the clean-up, you may line the oven with foil, directing the drippings into a pan placed at the bottom.

2.  Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cook for 15 minutes, then reduce to 350 degrees for 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let rest for 15 minutes in the oven.

3.  If the skin is not crispy enough, you may ladle hot oil over it.



Serving

1. The breast meat is the section of the duck that will be the most flavorful and the section most traditionally served. Slice the breasts into bite size pieces.

2. Remove the remaining meat and combine it with the crispy skin on the back of the duck. NOTE: depending on the size of the duck, the breasts and the legs may cook at different rates. In some cases, the hindquarters may have to be cook slightly longer.

3. Your duck may be served with cucumber, green onion, and a dollop of hoisin sauce wrapped up in a mandarin pancake or tortilla. Or, it could be eaten with rice and broccoli. Or, as it is sometimes enjoyed in China, it may be dipped skin-side down in sugar, causing the flavors to pop.

4. Enjoy!

Duck Prosciutto

Because duck is unlike chicken, in that it is red meat, they are frequently used in ways that we would not use chicken. Duck prosciutto is just like ordinary prosciutto that is made with pork. The uncooked breast, with its skin and fat intact, is cured in salt and hung to dry. And that's it! With a distinct duck flavor, it can be used just like ordinary prosciutto. Its saltiness makes it a great accompaniment with something sweet. Like ordinary prosciutto, it can be cut paper thin and eaten on a slice of mellon, or a warmed date, or simply by itself. Wrap it in plastic and it should last several weeks in the refrigerator.

1.  Wash, dry, and completely cover the duck breast in kosher salt. Using a jar or bowl, apply some weight to the breasts. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

2.  Rinse and pat dry. The breast will have darkened in color. Lightly dust with white pepper to deter any insects and wrap in cheesecloth.







3. Hang to dry, ideally in a cool place (50-60 degrees), for 7 days.

Crab Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette

This particular recipe caught my eye as an alternative to the traditional crab cake. Crab cakes are traditionally held together with a Japanese style bread crumb called Panko. In the world of bread crumbs, it is very unique and there are no suitable gluten free alternatives. And so when I saw this recipe I hoped that it might satisfy my occasional desire for crab cakes. My hope was not deferred. Of course, it is more like a crab salad than a crab cake, but that is not a complaint. It is wonderfully delicate, light, and refreshing.

The secret ingredient is crème fraîche. Mayonnaise and sour cream are alternatives, but mayonnaise is flavorless and much heavier and sour cream is far less delicate and can easily overpower the crab. Crème fraîche can be a little expense to buy and perhaps difficult to find, but it is cheap and easy to make. Plan ahead, because it will need to be made at least one day in advance.

Servings: 4 two inch round crab towers
Time: 20 minutes

6-8 ounces crab meat, coarsely chopped
1    small seedless cucumber (about 1/2 cup), peeled and finely diced
2    plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
1/4  teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1    teaspoon cilantro, minced
1/2  teaspoon fresh lime juice
2    tablespoons crème fraîche

Crème Fraîche

  1  cup heavy cream (a non ultra-pasturized brand such as Anderson)
  2  tablespoons buttermilk

Balsamic Vinaigrette

  1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1.  To make the crème fraîche, heat the cream just until warm. Combine the cream and the buttermilk in a jar or a bowl and stir. Lightly cover and let sit on the counter in a warm place for 24 hours. The acidity in the buttermilk prevents the growth of bacteria. The mixture should thicken to the consistency of a lightly whipped cream, enough to coat a spoon. It may even yellow just a little. It should be tangy and a little nutty. Refrigerate before use.

2.  Combine the diced cucumbers, tomatoes, 1/4 teaspoon of olive oil, lime juice, and cilantro, and then toss gently. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let the flavors marinade for at least 10 minutes.

3.  Drain any liquid from the crab meat. In a separate bowl, combine the crab meat and the crème fraîche. Add salt and pepper to taste.

4.  Drain any additional liquid from the cucumber-tomato mixture and then combine with the crab meat. Toss gently. Serve it as a crab tower salad, using a 2-inch ring mold, or with some mixed greens drizzled with some balsamic vinaigrette, or perhaps with some fresh French rolls.

To make the Vinaigrette: Combine the vinegar in a blender and slowly incorporate the oil. Salt to taste.


Recommended Wine

Choose a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with its crisp acidity and touch of minerals to contrast with the richness of the crab and create a zing with the sharpness of the cilantro.

Char Siu

Char siu, pronounced char-swee, is one of those meats that you would normally find hanging in the window at the Chinese market, along with the whole roasted ducks and salt-roasted chickens. However, of the three, char siu, or Chinese barbecue pork, is by far the easiest to make at home. Of course, we cannot duplicate the traditional Chinese technique, and in some cases would not want to. For example, not only are they hung in special ovens, they get their traditional ruby red color by being marinated in curing salt. Curing salt is a special kind of salt with nitrites and nitrates. Oddly, ketchup makes a perfect substitute for these salts, providing the ruby red color without the nitrates. Not only can curing salts be difficult to find, too many nitrates and nitrites can be a harmful thing. Besides, after having tried both methods, the ketchup seems to produce the better result. By far, the best recipe that I've found is from America's Test Kitchen: the Best International Recipe cookbook (p.532), though it still needed to be modified to meet our (FODMAP) dietary needs.

Traditional recipes cut the pork butt into long strips, but smaller and shorter strips seem to work best at home. One option is to buy the precut country-style short ribs (which is cut from the pork butt roast). This may eliminate a few steps and make for easier preparation, but they will be slightly more chewy and more dry than strips cut from a pork butt roast. With the bone removed, cut the roast lengthwise into 2-1/2 inch strips (resembling the precut country-style ribs). If it is any consolation, the "pork butt" is actually taken from the pig's front shoulder, and may even be labeled as such at your supermarket.

Serving: 6
Time: 20 min (prep); 4 hr (marinating); 1-1/4 hr (cooking)

1  (4 pound) boneless pork butt, cut into strips (see above)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup soy sauce (gluten free)
6  tablespoons hoisin sauce (FODMAP hoisin sauce)
1/4 cup rice wine (Shaohsing wine) or dry sherry
2  tablespoons ginger, grated
2  cloves garlic, minced (non-FODMAP, omit or substitute with minced garlic greens)
1  tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1  teaspoon five-spice powder (FODMAP Five Spice)
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 cup ketchup (no high fructose corn syrup)
1/3 cup honey (non-FODMAP, substitute with maple syrup)

1.  Using a fork, prick the pork strips 10 to 12 times on each side. This will allow the marinade to flavor the meat more thoroughly. American's Test Kitchen states that this enables the marinating time to be reduced to 30 minutes. This may be true if you are in a hurry, but if you have the time plan on still marinating the meat for 4 hours. For now, place the meat in a large zip-lock bag and set aside.

2.  Combine all of the ingredients into a bowl, with the exception of the ketchup and honey (or maple syrup), and mix well. Reserve 1/2 cup of the marinade for basting. Pour the remainder of the marinade over the meat in the zip-lock bag. Remove the air from the bag and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

3.  Meanwhile, combine the ketchup and honey (or maple syrup) in a saucepan, together with the 1/2 cup reserved marinade. Heat until syrupy and well mixed.

4.  Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the strips of meat on a baking sheet with a wire rack. Pour 1/2 cup water in the bottom of the pan. Tightly cover the entire pan with foil and roast the pork for 20 minutes.

5.  Remove the foil cover and cook for another 25 minutes.

6.  Turn the oven to broil and broil the pork, still on the medium rack, until evenly browned (7-9 minutes). Then brush the pork with the reserved ketchup-marinade mixture and broil for an additional 3-5 minutes. The pork will look turn to a deep mahogany color and look as though it were burning.

7.  Flip the meat and repeat step 6, broiling for 7-9 minutes, then baste and broil for an additional 3-5 minutes.

8.  Let the meat sit for 10 minutes, then slice and serve.

Ricotta Pie

For me, memories are forged by good food. I'll recall an event or place when reminded of certain flavors or aromas. And I suspect this is true for most people. Our family memories and traditions have as much to do with food as with the people with which we share it. In most cultures, food and holidays go hand in hand. Although the entire family may be gathered together, it doesn't feel like Christmas without the ham and sweet potatoes with gooey marshmallows, or Thanksgiving without the traditional turkey and stuffing.

But what does Easter feel like? For many of us, our traditions, and therefore our memories, don't go much deeper than the chocolate bunny or sickeningly sweet marshmallow peeps that we would rather forget than remember. Not so for the Italians. They might have peeps, I don't really know, but for many ricotta pie is a much more memorable Easter tradition. Who remembers mom giving them peeps? But mom's ricotta pie, that's a memory worth passing down to your kids.

Ricotta pie is a great after dinner treat or even a welcomed addition to the breakfast table. It is simple to make, easily stored, and served cold. While it is usually made with your average store bought ricotta, I cannot express to you how much more creamy and smooth it is with homemade ricotta, resembling the texture of mascarpone or a light and refreshing cheese cake. The homemade ricotta is well worth the additional time and work, especially if this is a treat and memory that only comes around once a year.

Serving: One 9-inch pie

Gluten Free Crust: single crust

   We recommend using Williams-Sonoma's gluten free piecrust mix,
       following the ingredient directions on the box.
   In addition:
     1  teaspoon orange peel
     1  teaspoon lemon peel

Traditional Crust: single crust
 
   1-1/4 cups all purpose flour
   1/3 cup sugar
   3/4 teaspoon orange peel
   3/4 teaspoon lemon peel
   1/3 teaspoon salt
   1/3 teaspoon baking powder
   1/3 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 1/4 inch cubes
   1  large egg

1.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a mixer with a flat beater, combine flour, sugar, orange and lemon peel, salt, and baking powder. Mix for 1 minute.

2.  Slowly add butter and mix on medium-low until coarse meal forms, about the size of peas.

3.  Add the eggs and mix until moist clumps form and dough begins to pull together, about 1 minute.

4.  Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead to combine well, about 1 minute. Roll out into an 11 inch round about 1/8 inch thick. Using the rolling pin, transfer the dough to a 9 inch pie dish and gently press into the dish. Trim the edges.


Filling:

   1  16-ounce container of whole milk ricotta (2 cups)
   3  ounces cream cheese, room temperature
   1  tablespoon cornstarch
   1  teaspoon vanilla
   1/2 cup sugar
   1-1/2 teaspoons orange peel
   1  teaspoon lemon peel
   2  large eggs

1.  Using an electric mixer, beat the ricotta, cream cheese, cornstarch, and vanilla in a large bowl.

2.  Add the sugar, orange peel, lemon peel, and eggs, and beat until well mixed.

3.  Transfer the filling into the dough-lined pie pan. Bake until golden and puffed, about 1 hour. Keep an eye on the edge of the crust, covering it with foil if necessary, so that it does not burn. Cool completely. As it cools, the puffing will go down. Serve chilled or at room temperature.