Sunday, September 29, 2013

Chinese Five Spice Powder



Chinese five spice powder is an essential spice in many recipes. If you have no dietary limitations, it is certainly easiest to purchase it from your local grocery store. However, if you are on a FODMAP diet, you will need to make your own. Five spice powder is made from cinnamon, cloves, star anise, pepper, and fennel, and fennel is off limits. However, you can just substitute the fennel with anise seed. Yes, this makes it a four spice powder, but it works just fine!

1  teaspoon ground cinnamon
1  teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon anise seed
1  teaspoons ground star anise (grind the entire "star")
1  teaspoon ground pepper

1.  It is best to use the freshest spices. If possible, grind each spice in a coffee grinder separately, mix the proper amounts together, and then grind altogether one last time.

2.  Store in a cool dry place in an airtight container.

Hoisin Sauce




Hoisin Sauce is a traditional Chinese dipping sauce. It is made with soy bean paste or black bean paste, vinegar, garlic, honey or molasses, sesame seed, and varying amounts of Chinese hot sauce. Nowadays it is fairly easy to find in the supermarket and well worth the purchase. In fact, if you are looking for a gluten free hoisin sauce, the Dynasty brand is by far the best. However, hoisin sauce poses several problems for a FODMAP diet. Not only the wheat, but also the soy bean, black bean, honey, molasses, and garlic are off limits. This particular recipe is a reasonable attempt at a hoisin sauce that is suitable for a FODMAP diet.

Ingredients (makes 1/2 cup)

4 tablespoons soy sauce (gluten free)
2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
4 tablespoons maple syrup or maltose (preferred)
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon tahini
2-1/2 teaspoons rice (or white) vinegar
1/4 teaspoon star anise, ground
chiles or hot sauce to desired heat

Mix together all of the ingredients, with the exception of the hot sauce. Taste and adjust if necessary in order to reach the perfect flavor and consistency.  Add hot sauce to taste.



Saturday, September 28, 2013

Peking Duck Recipe




Pekin Duck is a delicious treat that is sometimes difficult to find and nearly impossible to make at home. Some say that you can't find the real thing outside of China, which may be partially true. The Chinese raise their ducklings for this very purpose and they tend to have more fat and attain crispier skin. Moreover, they are ordinarily roasted over an open flame in a traditional duck oven. What we lack in the quality and breed of duck, as well the style of oven, we must make up in spices and modified techniques. And what is more, traditional pekin duck involves many ingredients that are not suitable for my family's particular dietary restrictions (i.e., FODMAP). This makes for a challenge, but it is one that is highly rewarding. 

Marinade

6     tablespoons hoisin sauce (FODMAP Hoisin Sauce)
3     tablespoons sugar
1.5  tablespoons five spice powder (FODMAP Five Spice)
1.5  tablespoons white pepper
1.5  tablespoons salt
3     tablespoons ginger powder
3     tablespoons garlic greens, minced
1.5  tablespoons ground mandarin orange peel. You may dry your own peels
       and grind them in a coffee grinder
6     green onion, cut to 5-inch pieces (FODMAP – the green portion only)
4     slices fresh ginger, peeled

Additional Ingredients

1  5-6 pound Pekin duck (with head and feet intact if available)
10-15 whole star anise
1        slice of ginger
1        tablespoon licorice root (small handful)
Sev.   large pieces of dried citrus peel
2        cups Chinese red vinegar
1        tablespoon lemon juice
1        container maltose (17.6 oz)
2        cups hot water


Day 1

1.  Using an air compressor set to a moderate psi, pump air under the skin through a slit made in the duck's neck. The duck's skin should blow up like a balloon, stretching out and separating from the fat that lies underneath. It you are unable to find a duck with its head and neck still intact, you may still do this, but it will take a little more work getting air between the skin and the layer of fat. Make sure the air goes all the way down into the thighs, legs, and back. Likewise, if you do not have an air compressor, you may use a bicycle pump. Naturally, it will be more work, but not impossible. Eventually we will be letting the duck dry overnight in the refrigerator. Separating the skin from the fat will allow the skin to crisp during cooking.


2.  Cut off the wings and the feet. Clean and rinse the duck's stomach cavity.  Then mix together the hoisin sauce, sugar, five spice powder, white pepper, salt, and mandarin orange peel. Put the mixture into the duck, rubbing it into the sides of the cavity. Also place the aromatics, the green onions and slices of ginger, into the cavity. Then tightly sow up the cavity until none of the marinade can leak out. You may do this with a skewer. Start at the base of the cavity and slowly weave together the sides of the cavity.

3.  Place the duck uncovered, belly side down, in the refrigerator on a wire rack for 24 hours. This will allow the duck to marinade and for the skin to dry out.

Day 2

1.  Dissolve the maltose in the 2 cups of hot water. The maltose is very hard and sticky and therefore needs to be made into a more manageable form. Then add the vinegar, which will help dry out the skin,  and the lemon juice. Set aside and cool to room temperature.

2.  Meanwhile, using a large pot or large wok, boil 1-2 gallons of water. Add the licorice root, star anise, ginger, and dried citrus peel (this can be from any citrus, even the leftover mandarin peels). Boil for 15-20 minutes until the water changes color.

3.  Using tongs or a hook to hold onto the duck, set it in the boiling aromatic water. This will both tighten up and flavor the duck's skin. Set the duck in the water, holding it with one hand and ladling the water over its back with the other hand. If your duck's neck and head have been removed, be careful not to allow liquid into the neck cavity. You are not trying to boil or cook the duck, so continually turn it while ladling the mixture over it. The aromatics will give the skin of the duck its characteristic flavor. Do this for about 2 minutes.

4.  Over a large pan to catch the drippings, ladle the maltose mixture over the duck a little bit at a time until the entire duck has been coated and the entire mixture has been used. The maltose will give the duck's skin its characteristically sweet flavor and golden color.

5.  Hang the duck in a cool space, or set in the refrigerator on a wire rack so that it is open to the air on all sides, for 5-24 hours. The skin should be dry, slightly darkened, and slightly rubbering or springy.







To Cook

1.  Ideally, you will want to find a way to hang the duck from the upper rack. In a normal home oven, you can situate the rack above the uppermost position. This allows just enough room for a 5-6 pound duck. To minimize the clean-up, you may line the oven with foil, directing the drippings into a pan placed at the bottom.

2.  Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cook for 15 minutes, then reduce to 350 degrees for 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and let rest for 15 minutes in the oven.

3.  If the skin is not crispy enough, you may ladle hot oil over it.



Serving

1. The breast meat is the section of the duck that will be the most flavorful and the section most traditionally served. Slice the breasts into bite size pieces.

2. Remove the remaining meat and combine it with the crispy skin on the back of the duck. NOTE: depending on the size of the duck, the breasts and the legs may cook at different rates. In some cases, the hindquarters may have to be cook slightly longer.

3. Your duck may be served with cucumber, green onion, and a dollop of hoisin sauce wrapped up in a mandarin pancake or tortilla. Or, it could be eaten with rice and broccoli. Or, as it is sometimes enjoyed in China, it may be dipped skin-side down in sugar, causing the flavors to pop.

4. Enjoy!



Monday, March 25, 2013

Duck Prosciutto



Because duck is unlike chicken, in that it is red meat, they are frequently used in ways that we would not use chicken. Duck prosciutto is just like ordinary prosciutto that is made with pork. The uncooked breast, with its skin and fat intact, is cured in salt and hung to dry. And that's it! With a distinct duck flavor, it can be used just like ordinary prosciutto. Its saltiness makes it a great accompaniment with something sweet. Like ordinary prosciutto, it can be cut paper thin and eaten on a slice of mellon, or a warmed date, or simply by itself. Wrap it in plastic and it should last several weeks in the refrigerator.


1.  Wash, dry, and completely cover the duck breast in kosher salt. Using a jar or bowl, apply some weight to the breasts. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

2.  Rinse and pat dry. The breast will have darkened in color. Lightly dust with white pepper to deter any insects and wrap in cheesecloth.







3. Hang to dry, ideally in a cool place (50-60 degrees), for 7 days.





Monday, March 4, 2013

Crab Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette



This particular recipe caught my eye as an alternative to the traditional crab cake. Crab cakes are traditionally held together with a Japanese style bread crumb called Panko. In the world of bread crumbs, it is very unique and there are no suitable gluten free alternatives. And so when I saw this recipe I hoped that it might satisfy my occasional desire for crab cakes. My hope was not deferred. Of course, it is more like a crab salad than a crab cake, but that is not a complaint. It is wonderfully delicate, light, and refreshing.

The secret ingredient is crème fraîche. Mayonnaise and sour cream are alternatives, but mayonnaise is flavorless and much heavier and sour cream is far less delicate and can easily overpower the crab. Crème fraîche can be a little expense to buy and perhaps difficult to find, but it is cheap and easy to make. Plan ahead, because it will need to be made at least one day in advance.

Servings: 4 two inch round crab towers
Time: 20 minutes

6-8 ounces crab meat, coarsely chopped
1    small seedless cucumber (about 1/2 cup), peeled and finely diced
2    plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
1/4  teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1    teaspoon cilantro, minced
1/2  teaspoon fresh lime juice
2    tablespoons crème fraîche

Crème Fraîche

  1  cup heavy cream (a non ultra-pasturized brand such as Anderson)
  2  tablespoons buttermilk

Balsamic Vinaigrette

  1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1.  To make the crème fraîche, heat the cream just until warm. Combine the cream and the buttermilk in a jar or a bowl and stir. Lightly cover and let sit on the counter in a warm place for 24 hours. The acidity in the buttermilk prevents the growth of bacteria. The mixture should thicken to the consistency of a lightly whipped cream, enough to coat a spoon. It may even yellow just a little. It should be tangy and a little nutty. Refrigerate before use.

2.  Combine the diced cucumbers, tomatoes, 1/4 teaspoon of olive oil, lime juice, and cilantro, and then toss gently. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let the flavors marinade for at least 10 minutes.

3.  Drain any liquid from the crab meat. In a separate bowl, combine the crab meat and the crème fraîche. Add salt and pepper to taste.

4.  Drain any additional liquid from the cucumber-tomato mixture and then combine with the crab meat. Toss gently. Serve it as a crab tower salad, using a 2-inch ring mold, or with some mixed greens drizzled with some balsamic vinaigrette, or perhaps with some fresh French rolls.

To make the Vinaigrette: Combine the vinegar in a blender and slowly incorporate the oil. Salt to taste.


Recommended Wine

Choose a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with its crisp acidity and touch of minerals to contrast with the richness of the crab and create a zing with the sharpness of the cilantro.


Monday, February 25, 2013

Char Siu



Char siu, pronounced char-swee, is one of those meats that you would normally find hanging in the window at the Chinese market, along with the whole roasted ducks and salt-roasted chickens. However, of the three, char siu, or Chinese barbecue pork, is by far the easiest to make at home. Of course, we cannot duplicate the traditional Chinese technique, and in some cases would not want to. For example, not only are they hung in special ovens, they get their traditional ruby red color by being marinated in curing salt. Curing salt is a special kind of salt with nitrites and nitrates. Oddly, ketchup makes a perfect substitute for these salts, providing the ruby red color without the nitrates. Not only can curing salts be difficult to find, too many nitrates and nitrites can be a harmful thing. Besides, after having tried both methods, the ketchup seems to produce the better result. By far, the best recipe that I've found is from America's Test Kitchen: the Best International Recipe cookbook (p.532), though it still needed to be modified to meet our (FODMAP) dietary needs.

Traditional recipes cut the pork butt into long strips, but smaller and shorter strips seem to work best at home. One option is to buy the precut country-style short ribs (which is cut from the pork butt roast). This may eliminate a few steps and make for easier preparation, but they will be slightly more chewy and more dry than strips cut from a pork butt roast. With the bone removed, cut the roast lengthwise into 2-1/2 inch strips (resembling the precut country-style ribs). If it is any consolation, the "pork butt" is actually taken from the pig's front shoulder, and may even be labeled as such at your supermarket.

Serving: 6
Time: 20 min (prep); 4 hr (marinating); 1-1/4 hr (cooking)

1  (4 pound) boneless pork butt, cut into strips (see above)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup soy sauce (gluten free)
6  tablespoons hoisin sauce (FODMAP hoisin sauce)
1/4 cup rice wine (Shaohsing wine) or dry sherry
2  tablespoons ginger, grated
2  cloves garlic, minced (non-FODMAP, omit or substitute with minced garlic greens)
1  tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1  teaspoon five-spice powder (FODMAP Five Spice)
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 cup ketchup (no high fructose corn syrup)
1/3 cup honey (non-FODMAP, substitute with maple syrup)

1.  Using a fork, prick the pork strips 10 to 12 times on each side. This will allow the marinade to flavor the meat more thoroughly. American's Test Kitchen states that this enables the marinating time to be reduced to 30 minutes. This may be true if you are in a hurry, but if you have the time plan on still marinating the meat for 4 hours. For now, place the meat in a large zip-lock bag and set aside.

2.  Combine all of the ingredients into a bowl, with the exception of the ketchup and honey (or maple syrup), and mix well. Reserve 1/2 cup of the marinade for basting. Pour the remainder of the marinade over the meat in the zip-lock bag. Remove the air from the bag and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

3.  Meanwhile, combine the ketchup and honey (or maple syrup) in a saucepan, together with the 1/2 cup reserved marinade. Heat until syrupy and well mixed.

4.  Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the strips of meat on a baking sheet with a wire rack. Pour 1/2 cup water in the bottom of the pan. Tightly cover the entire pan with foil and roast the pork for 20 minutes.

5.  Remove the foil cover and cook for another 25 minutes.

6.  Turn the oven to broil and broil the pork, still on the medium rack, until evenly browned (7-9 minutes). Then brush the pork with the reserved ketchup-marinade mixture and broil for an additional 3-5 minutes. The pork will look turn to a deep mahogany color and look as though it were burning.

7.  Flip the meat and repeat step 6, broiling for 7-9 minutes, then baste and broil for an additional 3-5 minutes.

8.  Let the meat sit for 10 minutes, then slice and serve.


Saturday, February 23, 2013

Ricotta Pie



For me, memories are forged by good food. I'll recall an event or place when reminded of certain flavors or aromas. And I suspect this is true for most people. Our family memories and traditions have as much to do with food as with the people with which we share it. In most cultures, food and holidays go hand in hand. Although the entire family may be gathered together, it doesn't feel like Christmas without the ham and sweet potatoes with gooey marshmallows, or Thanksgiving without the traditional turkey and stuffing.

But what does Easter feel like? For many of us, our traditions, and therefore our memories, don't go much deeper than the chocolate bunny or sickeningly sweet marshmallow peeps that we would rather forget than remember. Not so for the Italians. They might have peeps, I don't really know, but for many ricotta pie is a much more memorable Easter tradition. Who remembers mom giving them peeps? But mom's ricotta pie, that's a memory worth passing down to your kids.

Ricotta pie is a great after dinner treat or even a welcomed addition to the breakfast table. It is simple to make, easily stored, and served cold. While it is usually made with your average store bought ricotta, I cannot express to you how much more creamy and smooth it is with homemade ricotta, resembling the texture of mascarpone or a light and refreshing cheese cake. The homemade ricotta is well worth the additional time and work, especially if this is a treat and memory that only comes around once a year.

Serving: One 9-inch pie

Gluten Free Crust: single crust

   We recommend using Williams-Sonoma's gluten free piecrust mix,
       following the ingredient directions on the box.
   In addition:
     1  teaspoon orange peel
     1  teaspoon lemon peel

Traditional Crust: single crust
 
   1-1/4 cups all purpose flour
   1/3 cup sugar
   3/4 teaspoon orange peel
   3/4 teaspoon lemon peel
   1/3 teaspoon salt
   1/3 teaspoon baking powder
   1/3 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 1/4 inch cubes
   1  large egg

1.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a mixer with a flat beater, combine flour, sugar, orange and lemon peel, salt, and baking powder. Mix for 1 minute.

2.  Slowly add butter and mix on medium-low until coarse meal forms, about the size of peas.

3.  Add the eggs and mix until moist clumps form and dough begins to pull together, about 1 minute.

4.  Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead to combine well, about 1 minute. Roll out into an 11 inch round about 1/8 inch thick. Using the rolling pin, transfer the dough to a 9 inch pie dish and gently press into the dish. Trim the edges.


Filling:

   1  16-ounce container of whole milk ricotta (2 cups)
   3  ounces cream cheese, room temperature
   1  tablespoon cornstarch
   1  teaspoon vanilla
   1/2 cup sugar
   1-1/2 teaspoons orange peel
   1  teaspoon lemon peel
   2  large eggs

1.  Using an electric mixer, beat the ricotta, cream cheese, cornstarch, and vanilla in a large bowl.

2.  Add the sugar, orange peel, lemon peel, and eggs, and beat until well mixed.

3.  Transfer the filling into the dough-lined pie pan. Bake until golden and puffed, about 1 hour. Keep an eye on the edge of the crust, covering it with foil if necessary, so that it does not burn. Cool completely. As it cools, the puffing will go down. Serve chilled or at room temperature.


Friday, February 15, 2013

Braciole



Braciola (plural braciole) is an Italian dish made of thinly sliced beef, stuffed and rolled, seared and cooked in its own juices. It is traditionally stuffed with bread crumbs and cheese, but there is no "one way" to do it. Changing the cheese, or adding eggplant or prosciutto, can drastically change the taste. With a little creativity, this dish will never get old.

If you have the time and forethought, purchase your meat in advance and marinade in red wine for up to five days. Not only will this add a nice flavor, the enzymes in the wine will help to tenderize the meat. This was my first attempt at braciole, and if I were to do it all over again (and I will!), I would pound the flank steak quite a bit thinner, providing a greater surface area for the stuffing. Overall, this would have produced a more tender and flavorful dish. Nonetheless, "regrets" aside, you will not regret trying this dish!

This may be served as a side or as a main course. It is often served with salad, boiled potatoes, or as we have done, fresh pasta. Enjoy.

Serving: 4-5
Time: Prep (40 minutes) Cooking (1 hour 45 minutes)

1-1/2 pound flank steak, (NOTE: It is best when pounded
  thin and tenderized in red wine for 5 days)
Butcher's twine
1/2 cup dried Italian bread crumbs (gluten free)
1  garlic clove, minced (non-FODMAP, omit or substitute 1/2 teaspoon ginger)
2/3 cup Pecorino Romano, grated
1/3 cup Provolone, grated
2  tablespoons Italian parsley leaves, chopped
4  tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
1  cup dry wine (rec. an Italian Pinot Grigio)
3-1/4 cups simple Marinara sauce (w/o tomato paste, garlic, or onion)

1.  Braciola is usually made with thin cuts of meat. Therefore, depending on the thickness of the flank steak, it may need to be pounded thin with a meat mallet. Try to retain a rollable shape. In order to tenderize the meat, marinade in red wine for up to five days in advance.

2.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

3.  Mix together the bread crumbs, ginger, cheese, parsley, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Set aside.

4.  Lay the flank steak on a flat surface and pat dry with a paper towel. Spread the bread crumb mixture evenly over the top of the steak. Then gently roll the steak like a carpet and tie it with butcher's twine to hold it tightly together.

5.  Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a large ovenproof pan. Sear the braciola until all sides are nicely browned, about 10 minutes. After it is nicely seared, add the wine to deglaze the bottom of the pan. Add the marinara and bring to a simmer. Coat the braciola with the marinara sauce.

6.  Lightly cover the pan with foil and continue cooking in the oven. Cook for 1 hour, basting and rotating the braciola every 20 minutes. Then uncover the pan and cook an additional 30 minutes, occasionally basting the meat to prevent it from drying out.

7.  After it is cooked and tender, remove the braciola from the sauce and cut into 1/2 inch thick slices. Cut it crossways and diagonally, the way you would cut slices off a baguette. Serve with its own sauce.

Recommended Wine

Either a nice Pinot Grigio (white) or good Cabernet Sauvignon (red).


Thursday, February 14, 2013

Kalbi Beef (Korean BBQ Ribs)



Most authentic Korean, Thai, and Vietnamese restaurants will offer Kalbi beef on their menu. It is a tender and richly flavored beef short rib, often served with rice, a garlic fish sauce or a chile lime sauce, and perhaps a fresh papaya salad (as shown above). In my own experimenting with this recipe, three things have proven to be important. First, the quality of meat, particularly the amount of marbling in the meat, is essential in order to ensure tender ribs. You may request that your butcher cut the ribs from the fattier portion of the chuck end of the beef ribs. Request a 1/2 inch thick "flanken" cut, which will indicate to your butcher that you desire the ribs to be cut into 1/2 inch strips across the bone. On occasion, you may find them already cut and packaged in the meat department of your local market. However, make sure that they are sufficiently marbled and the correct thickness. We have personally had the best luck with black angus beef.

Secondly, it is important to allow the ribs to marinade overnight or for 24 hours. This is important both for flavor and in order to tenderize the meat. The acidity of the Asian pear accelerates the tenderizing compounds found in the the soy sauce, but it requires sufficient time to be effective.

Thirdly, Kalbi beef is the best when it is slightly charred on the outside, caramelizing the sugars in the marinade. Because the ribs are only 1/2 inch thick and tend to cook very quickly, high heat is necessary to quickly sear the beef. This may be done on a very hot grill, on a wire rack under the broiler, or in a cast iron grill pan. The latter two options may require that you open up a few windows to let the smoke escape.

Serving: 6

Ribs

3-1/2 pounds Korean style short ribs (highly marbled)
1-1/2 cup brown sugar
1  cup low sodium soy sauce (gluten free)
1/2 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup water (more as needed)
2  tablespoons ginger
3  medium to large limes, squeezed
2  tablespoons sesame oil (preferably dark)
3  tablespoons lemongrass, finely grated
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, ground

Optional Sauces

   Thai Chili Sauce
 
   4  garlic cloves, minced (non-FODMAP)
   8  red or green Thai chili peppers,
       finely chopped (may substitute
       with crushed red pepper flakes)
   1/3 cup fish sauce
   1/2 fresh lime juice
   3  tablespoons sugar
   2  tablespoons green onion, thinly
       sliced (green parts)

   Vietnamese Sauce

   3  garlic cloves, minced (non-FODMAP)
   1/3 cup fish sauce
   1/2 cup water
   1/4 cup carrot, thinly julienned

   FODMAP Sauce


   2 limes, squeezed
   2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce (gluten free)
   1 tablespoon rice vinegar
   1 teaspoon sesame oil
   2 tablespoons maple syrup


1.  Rinse the beef short ribs in cold water in order to remove any small shards of bone, then pat dry with a paper towel.

2.  Place the ribs and the brown sugar in a large zip-lock bag. Shake and shift around the bag until the ribs are evenly coated in the sugar. Set aside for at least 10 minutes.

3.  Mix the rest of the ingredients together in a bowl and pour over the ribs in the zip-lock bag. Add enough water to cover ribs. Remove all of the air from the bag and seal it up. This will pull the liquid upward and allow the marinade to fully cover the ribs. Place a piece of tape over the zip-lock to prevent air from slowly leaking into the bag. Marinade in the refrigerator for 24 hours, occasionally shifting the contents of the bag.

4.  If you are using one of the additional dipping sauces, mix ingredients and let the sauce stand for at least 15 minutes in order to allow the flavors to fully blend. Serve the sauce in a bowl or in small ramekins at the table.

5.  After 24 hours, remove the ribs from the marinade. Place on a very hot grill, turning only once, 3-4 minutes on each side. They are best served immediately, but they can be cooked in advance and warmed on a baking sheet with a rack in the oven. Serve with rice (preferably sticky rice).

Monday, February 4, 2013

Roasted Carrot Purée



What comes to mind when you think of cooked mashed carrots? Me too, but this is nothing like that! This is more like your thanksgiving sweet potatoes with roasted marshmallows, without having to add either the sugar or the marshmallows. By roasting the carrots its natural sugars caramelize, creating a new texture and flavor. This works great with any dish that you would normally pair with mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes. And with the added bonus that carrots are cheap, who can pass up trying it?

Serving: 4 (about 2 cups)
Time: 1 hour

2  pounds whole carrots, peeled
2  tablespoons olive oil
4  tablespoons butter
1  tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar (optional)
Salt

1.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2.  Make sure to use whole carrots. There is something about the processing that prevents the so-called baby carrots from caramelizing. Cut the thicker carrots in half lengthwise, leaving the skinnier carrots whole. Spread out on a baking sheet and cover with 2 tablespoons olive oil.

3.  Bake for about 1 hour or until the carrots are both tender and slightly blackened on the bottom and edges.

4.  In a food processor, combine the carrots and butter and purée until smooth. Add 1 tablespoon of well aged balsamic vinegar, and taste. Add more, a teaspoon at a time, if necessary. This was suggested to me by a friend. . . a friend that is so humble that she would not want me to give her credit. Nonetheless, it was a great suggestion. Another way to incorporate the vinegar (a good vinegar) is to drizzle a small amount on top. Nonetheless, with or without the vinegar, the carrots have enough merit of their own. Salt to taste and enjoy.

Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup)



It's true, it is far more convenient to eat pho at a local Vietnamese restaurant, but there is something rewarding about being able to make it at home. It is especially rewarding if you share in my predicament of living in an area devoid of Vietnamese cuisine. Homemade pho becomes, not only an option, but the only option.

Pho is pronounced "fuh," and though its derivation is uncertain, it refers to a very distinct Vietnamese beef noodle soup full of fresh and fragrant ingredients. Though I have seen, and even attempted, more simplistic recipes, they often seem to be missing the complexity of traditional pho. This recipe, though more laborious, represents a more authentic approach. With a few exceptions and simplifications, the following recipe was borrowed from Andrea Nguyen's Into the Vietnamese Kitchen.

For a complete list of ingredients, make sure to scroll down to each section: Broth, Bowls, and Additional Garnish.

Serving: 8

Broth

Chubby 4-inch piece ginger, unpeeled
1-1/2 stalks celery (low-FODMAP)
5-6  pounds beef leg bones, in 2-3 inch pieces
6  quarts water
5  whole star anise (40 robust points)
6  whole cloves
3-inch cinnamon stick
1-1/2 tablespoons salt
1/4 cup fish sauce
1-inch chunk yellow rock sugar (about 1.5 ounces)

1.  Place the ginger directly on the cooking grate of a medium-hot charcoal or gas grill or a gas stove with a medium flame, or on a medium hot burner of an electric stove. Let the skin burn (if you're working indoors, turn on the exhaust fan and open a window), using tongs to rotate the ginger. After 15 minutes, the ginger will have softened slightly and become sweetly fragrant. There may even be some bubbling. You do not have to blacken the entire surface. When amply charred, remove from the heat and let cool.

2.  To achieve a clear broth, you must first parboil and rinse the beef bones. Put them in a stockpot (about 12-quart capacity) and add cold water just to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil vigorously for 2-3 minutes to release the impurities. Dump the bones and water into the sink (make sure it is clean), and then rinse the bones with water to wash off any clinging residue. Quickly scrub the stockpot clean and return the bones to the pot. Pour in the 6 quarts of water, bring to a boil over high heat, and lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Use a ladle or large, shallow spoon to skim off any scum that rises to the top.

3.  Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler, paring knife, or the edge of a teaspoon to remove the ginger skin. Hold it under warm water to wash off any blackened bits. Halve the ginger lengthwise and bruise lightly with the broad side of a cleaver or chef's knife.

4.  Add the ginger, celery, star anise, cloves, cinnamon stick, salt, fish sauce, and rock sugar to the stock. Cook for 3 hours, uncovered, adjusting the heat if needed to maintain a simmer.

5.  Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve (or a coarse-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth) positioned over a pot. Discard any remaining solids. Use a ladle to skim off as much fat from the top of the broth as you like. (To make this easier, you can cool the broth, refrigerate overnight, lift off the solidified fat, and then reheat before continuing.) Taste and adjust the flavor with salt, fish sauce, and rock sugar. There should be about 4 quarts (16 cups) broth.


Bowls

1-1/2  pounds small flat rice noodles (1-2 bags)
1  pound sirloin (see below)
3-4  scallions, thinly sliced (green parts only)
1/3  cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1.  Freeze the raw sirloin for 15 minutes, then slice it across the grain into pieces 1/16 inch thick. If you prefer, you may ask your local butcher to slice it paper-thin. However, you may still need to pound the meat thinner with a meat tenderizer.  Trim off any remaining gristle, as this becomes chewy when cooked in the broth. Furthermore, there are additional (non-FODMAP) meat options, such as the tradition Vietnamese beef meatball. However, you may need to visit your local Asian market in order to find them. Cut the meatballs in half. Set all of the meat aside.


3.  In a bowl or baking dish, cover the noodles in boiling water and let them soak for 5-15 minutes. Do not boil them as you would normal pasta or else they will turn to mush. Let them soak in the hot water and check them often until they are pliable and opaque. They should not be chewy.

4.  Bring the broth to a simmer to ensure that the raw beef will be adequately cooked in the broth. Fill each [large] bowl with a portion of the noodles. (If the noodles have been drained and sat for any length of time, they tend to stick together and slightly harden. In order to separate and loosen them, dunk the noodles into boiling water.) Top each bowl with the raw beef and some scallions and cilantro. Ladle about 2 cups simmering broth into each bowl and serve immediately.


Additional Garnish

3  cups (1/2 pound) bean sprouts (low-FODMAP)
10-12  sprigs Thai Basil
2  limes, cut into wedges
1  yellow onion, sliced paper-thin (non-FODMAP)
1 Jalapeño, sliced
hoisin sauce (FODMAP hoisin sauce)
Sriracha chile sauce (non-FODMAP)

1.  Thinly slice the onion and soak in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2.  Gather all of the garnishes together on a plate and serve with the soup. Traditionally, these ingredients are added to the pho while at the table in order to preserve their freshness.
Bean sprouts can be very difficult to preserve for any length of time. In order to preserve their freshness, place a shallow layer in a baking dish and cover with water. Change the water daily and they should keep in the refrigerator for several days. 
3.  Add the hoisin and chile sauce to each bowl to taste. Most hoisin sauces (most sauces!) add wheat starch and therefore are not suitable for those who are gluten free. The best gluten free option that I've found is the brand Dynasty, sold at Walmart. However, all brands add garlic or onion and so if you are on a FODMAP diet you will need to make your own hoisin sauce (optional).

Jamaican Jerk Pork



Jamaican cuisine is a Caribbean culinary phenomenon. Jamaica as we know it today was largely populated by African slaves who brought many of their indigenous dishes with them. But the culinary history gets even more complex with the later influence of a new wave of indentured servants coming from East India, China, and the Middle East to work on the plantations. Moreover, as many of slaves tended to the culinary needs of the English and Spanish plantation owners, noticeable English and Spanish contributions to Jamaica's food history developed. As a result, today's Jamaican cuisine has become a culinary hybrid of numerous cultural influences.

Jerk is one dish that has become famously associated with Jamaican cuisine. It is thought that it was originated by English and Spanish slaves who fled to the mountainous regions of Jamaica. As they hunted the wild hogs, they devised a method of preserving them with pimento, peppers, and ash. From this practice arose what we know as Jamaican jerk barbecue. All you need is an ice-cold Red Stipe Jamaican lager and some good reggae music.

Jerk pork is traditionally served roasted yams and/or "festival bread". Festival bread is similar to a crispy sweetened cornmeal naan. However, rice and a mango chutney would go equally well.

Serving:

3-4 pound boneless pork shoulder, butterflied, attempting to leave
    the fat evenly distributed throughout.
5  bunches of scallions, finely chopped (green parts only)
3  large cloves of garlic, minced (non-FODMAP; either omit or substitute
    a teaspoon minced ginger)
3  Scotch bonnet peppers (or Habanero), minced
2  large sprigs of thyme
4  tablespoons allspice
2  tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1.  With the exception of the pork, combine all of the ingredients. Slowly add water until it forms a loose paste.

2.  Reserve some of the jerk marinade as a condiment. Coat the pork with the remaining sauce and let it marinade in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

3.  Cook the pork until it is cooked throughout and slightly charred on the outside. There are several different options for achieving this.

Barbecue

Soak some wood chips for 30 minutes. Pimento is traditionally used, but any wood without a strong flavor is fine (not Mesquite). Meanwhile, prepare an outdoor barbecue as usual. When the coals have become ready, add some of the soaked wood. Place the meat on the grill and cover. Cook slowly for about 2-1/2 hours, turning several times throughout. The overall time will depend on the size of the pork shoulder and the temperature of the grill. In the end, it should be cooked throughout and slightly charred on the outside. Take the meat off the grill and let it sit for at least 15 minutes before carving. Chop the meat into bite-size pieces and serve.

Smoker

See above for "barbecue". If necessary, finish cooking the pork on a hot grill or under a broiler to achieve a slightly charred exterior.

Oven

If smoking is an option, the meat may also be cold smoked in advance for 2 hours, either at home or by your local butcher, and then finished off in the oven. If smoking the meat is not an option, the dish will still be well worth the effort. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Set the meat on a broiling pan with a rack, so that the meat will be able to crisp slightly on all sides. Cook for 1-–1-1/2 hours, depending upon the size of the pork shoulder, turning halfway through. If necessary, finish cooking the meat under the broiler until it is slightly charred on both sides. Remove the meat from the oven and let it sit for at least 15 minutes before carving. Chop the meat into bite-size pieces and serve.

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Ricotta Gnudi



Gnudi hail from Tuscany and are like melt-in-the-mouth pillows. In many ways they are like gnocchi, though they are made out of cheese rather than potato. Gnudi in Italian means "naked," because they are like cheese filled ravioli stripped of its pasta wrapper.

Although gnudi would ordinarily not find its way on any health-conscious menu, this particular recipe has been adapted from Rocco Dispirito's reduced calories Italian cookbook. However, I cannot claim all of the calorie slashing that he does, because I am convinced that a great ricotta gnudi depends upon a creamy ricotta, and creamy cannot be achieved with a fat-free or reduced-fat ricotta. What can be said of this recipe is that it still significantly reduces the flour calories of a traditional recipe with the use of a little cornstarch and egg white powder. Egg white powder can be found in the heath food department of your local grocery store. Sure, it is a little expensive per volume, but it greatly reduces the amount of caloric flour and therefore provides a more healthy option for this wonderfully rich dish.

Servings: 4 (20 gnudi)
Time: 50 minutes (Note: prepare the ricotta in advance)

Marinara Sauce
1-3/4 cups whole milk ricotta, strained
   for 1 hour in advance (or better, make your own Homemade Ricotta)
2 tablespoons flour (or Cup 4 Cup gluten free flour)
3/4 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
1/2 cup roughly chopped basil
A pinch of ground nutmeg
4 tablespoons egg white powder
1/4 cup cornstarch
Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

1.  IN ADVANCE, you may either prepare Homemade Ricotta, letting it strain for 2 hours, or if you prefer you may strain the store bought ricotta for at least 1 hour.

2.  In a sauce pan, begin to heat the marinara. Likewise, bring 4 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of kosher or sea salt to boil.

3.  In a bowl, combine the ricotta, flour, Parmigiano-Reggiano, basil, flour, nutmeg, and 1 tablespoon of the egg white powder. Mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4.  Scoop out 20 generous tablespoons of the mixture and place them on a baking sheet or platter. At this stage, its consistency will be similar to cookie dough. Place the platter or baking sheet in the freezer for 10 minutes in order to harden slightly. This will enable you to finish shaping and coating them more easily.

5.  Place the remaining 3 tablespoons of egg white powder in a bowl. In the palm of your hand, roll each gnudi into nicely formed balls. Then, thoroughly coat each ball in the egg white powder.

6.  Place the cornstarch in a separate bowl. Give each ball an additional coating of cornstarch until completely covered.

7.  Without letting the balls touch each other, drop them into the rapidly boiling water. Cook for precisely 2 minutes.

"The reason traditional gnudi don't fall apart in the boiling water is because they're dried uncovered overnight and a natural flour wrapper forms. Since I couldn't use highly caloric flour, I had to devise a way to envelop the cheese without adding too many calories. The combination of egg white powder and cornstarch accomplished just that. The exercise of swapping out calories often produces a result where flavors pop even more than in the original, as is the case here." – Rocco Dispirito 

8.  After 2 minutes, gently remove the gnudi from the water. Serve with marinara and some additional shredded Parmigiano. Enjoy!


Recommended Wine

Because gnudi hails from Tuscany, a nice Tuscan Chianti might be in order. 2007 was a good year for Chianti. I would recommend the 2007 La Castellina Chianti Classico. This wine has strong hints of cherry and a nice acidity that contrasts with the richness of the gnudi.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Homemade Ricotta



Simply delicious! When most people think of ricotta, they don't usually think "delicious," and for good reason. "Ricotta" is Italian for "recooked," because it is traditionally made from the left over whey of other cheeses like Parmesan or Mozzarella. In other words, it's made from their scraps, and therefore is forced to stand in the shadow of other cheeses. But what happens if you invest in your ricotta and let it stand as a cheese all of its own? You get . . . something rich, creamy, and simply delicious!

This recipe was borrowed from Smitten Kitchen who was likewise inspired by Salvatore Brooklyn via Tasting Table.

Serving: Makes around 1 cup
Time: 1-2 hours (a lot of time, only a little bit of work)

3  cups whole milk [update: "Ultra-pasturized" milk or cream will 
    not work, and unfortunately they are not required to label it as
   "ultra." If you have the Anderson brand in your area, it has proven
    to work the best for us.]
1  cup heavy cream
3  tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pinch of salt
Cheesecloth

1.  Add the milk and cream to a nonreactive sauce pan. Aluminum and copper can especially react with food-acidity and leave behind an undesirable metallic flavor. Therefore, use a stainless steal or clay pot. Slowly and patiently heat the mixture to 195˚, occasionally giving it a stir to prevent the milk from burning on the bottom of the pan. Then remove the pot from the heat and allow to cool to 190˚.

Note: When ricotta is made from the left over whey of another cheese, or simply from inferior ingredients, it will result in a flavorless and gritty texture. By way of contrast, it is the fat from the whole milk and the heavy cream that produces the creamy texture. Therefore, do not forgo the fat!
2.  Removed from the heat, add the lemon juice 1 tablespoon at a time. Stir gently after each addition until the curds begin to separate. Let sit undisturbed for 5 to 20 minutes.

3.  Line a colander with cheesecloth (2 layers). Wet the cheesecloth and place the colander over a bowl or pot to catch the whey. Using a ladle, spoon the curds into the colander and let strain for 1 hour. After 30 minutes, the ricotta will be slightly wet, but plenty creamy. You may prefer this consistency for a dish like lasagne. However, the longer it strains, the creamier it will become. After 1 hour it is slightly drier and creamier, perfect for a baguette or your morning crepe or toast. You can let it strain for as long as it takes to reach the texture you desire. Then salt to taste.

Note: One of the reasons that your typical store bought ricotta is so flavorless and watery is because they do not adequately strain it. They sell it by the weight and therefore all their profit is in the water. 
4.  Store the ricotta in the refrigerator in an airtight container and it should last for several days. Enjoy!



Friday, January 25, 2013

Cacio e Pepe (Cheese and Pepper)



Cacio e Pepe is a simple but delicious dish. As the name should indicate, it is an Italian recipe known for its creamy texture and peppery kick. Provided that the pasta has already been prepared, it takes only minutes to create. It consists of only a few main ingredients: butter, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper.

4 Servings
Time: 15-20 minutes

8 ounces tagliatelle or fettuccine (fresh pasta: use half pasta recipe)
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon cream (optional)
3 ounces Pecorino Romano, grated
1-1/2 teaspoons crushed black peppercorn
1/4 cup parsley
shrimp or chicken (optional)

The Pasta

For fresh pasta see Gluten Free Pasta. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt (but no oil). Boil the pasta as per the instructions (about 7 minutes) or, if fresh, until they begin to float. Stir occasionally to discourage the pasta from sticking together. When al dente remove the pasta from the water and set aside, reserving a cup or so of the pasta water for the sauce.

The Sauce

1. As the pasta is cooking, prepare the other ingredients and set aside. In particular, crush the peppercorn thoroughly, but do not grind it. You may do this by setting your pepper mill to a medium to course setting, or you can crush it with your knife. If you use your knife, place the peppercorn on your counter or cutting board and cover it with cellophane. Then use the broad side of your knife and press down firmly until the pepper is adequately crushed. The cellophane will prevent the peppercorns from shooting across the counter. Likewise, if you are adding chicken or shrimp, now would be the time to grill it.

2. Place the butter and pepper in a pan on low to medium heat. Allow the pepper to infuse itself into the butter. Cook until the butter is bubbly and foamy, but not brown.


3. Add the cream (optional) and 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Add about three-quarters of the Pecorino Romano, saving some for garnish. Whisk together until smooth. If the cheese gets lumpy, you may add more of the pasta water and bring back to a simmer until it smooths out.


4. Add the pasta to the pan and increase the heat until the sauce thickens and begins to adhere to the pasta. Season with salt to taste. Toss with parsley, shrimp or chicken (optional), and enjoy.


Recommended Wine

As always, paring wine with food is more of an art than a science. Nonetheless, there are some simple guidelines that can help. In this case, the saltiness of the cheese could go very nicely with the acidity of a Chianti or Rosso. The one leaves you wanting more of the other. Or, if you prefer to accent the pepper and contrast the creaminess of the cheese, a crisp sauvignon blanc may do the trick.



Thursday, January 24, 2013

Gluten Free Pasta



Fresh pasta takes a bit of work compared to its dried and boxed alternative, but it is well worth the time and effort. In fact, with the proper tools, and a few easy steps, it can be ready to cook in 50 minutes. Moreover, the dough can be wrapped tightly and placed in the refrigerator for up to a week, and the noodles themselves can be hung to dry for several hours prior to cooking without loosing their freshness.

The more difficult aspect of this experiment has been our quest to find a tasty gluten free alternative. Although we eat gluten free, we love our gluten. If it doesn't taste just like the traditional pasta, we would rather forego pasta altogether. But that is no longer necessary. What follows is a gluten free pasta that even the most discerning palate will not be able to tell the difference. Moreover, it's fresh! The great thing about this recipe is that all of the ingredient measurements are the same whether you make it gluten free or not. We have discovered a new brand of gluten free flour called Cup 4 Cup. As the name indicates, it is a premixed blend of cornstarch, white rice flour, brown rice flower, milk powder, tapioca flour, potato starch and xanthan gum that can used, "cup for cup," as a substitute for wheat flour. We have found that this is not entirely true for all recipes that call for flower, but it works marvelously for pasta. Enjoy!

8 servings (will vary upon the type of noodle and/or dish)
Time: 50 minutes

2  cups flour (use "Cup 4 Cup" for gluten free alternative)
    1/4 cup extra flour in case dough is too wet
4  large eggs
2  tablespoons olive oil

1.  On a clean surface, form the flour into the shape of a bowl. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk the eggs together. Place the eggs and olive oil in the center of the flour and slowly begin to incorporate the flour into the egg with a fork, starting with the inner rim of the well. As you incorporate the eggs, keep pushing the flour up to retain the shape of the flour-bowl.

2.  Continue to knead the flour into the dough, adding extra flour if it is too sticky. You should be able to form the dough into a slightly elastic ball without it sticking to your hands (a little stickiness is normal). Its consistency should be something like play-doh (before the play-doh gets dried out!).


3.  After you have achieved the proper consistency, tightly wrap the dough in plastic and place it in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes. This allows the dough to rest and come to an even temperature.

4.  After the dough has rested for at least 20 minutes, you're ready to make your pasta. There are different ways to do this. You may use a hand crank pasta roller, but by far the easiest and quickest way is with a pasta roller attachment to your kitchen mixer. This allows you to set the speed and leaves both hands free to feed and catch the pasta. Either way, begin with the pasta (or lasagne) roller, adjusting it to its thickest setting.

Cut the dough into eight even pieces. One at a time, feed the dough into the roller, catching it as it comes out. If it breaks or its edges become jagged, no worries! Just fold the dough in half lengthwise and put it through the roller another time until it begins to even out. If it sticks, dust the noodle with flour between runs. Continue to adjust the roller setting until you reach the desired thickness of the particular kind of pasta you are making. For lasagne, setting 5-6 is adequate; for fettuccine or spaghetti, 4-5 seems to work the best.

5. At this point, you have flattened your dough and are ready to cut your pasta. If lasagna, your noodles are ready. If ravioli, you're ready to stuff and cut the ravioli. If spaghetti or fettuccine, you're ready to cut the noodles. For this, you may either cut them by hand or with a mixer attachment. If by hand, gently roll up your sheets of pasta like a carpet. Take a sharp knife and gently cut the rolled pasta into strips, whatever width you desire. Unroll the strips and you have your pasta.

If you are using an attachment, it is as simple as feeding the pasta through the cutter. Catch the pasta and set it aside on either a plate or a rack until you are ready to cook it.

6.  After all of the pasta has been cut, it is ready to cook. In a large pot, boil enough water to cover the pasta. Add salt, but not oil. Oil should not be necessary and may prevent your sauce from adhering to the noodles. Gently add the pasta. Cooking time varies, depending upon the thickness of the pasta. Usually, however, when fresh pasta begins to float it is done. Cook to al dente and gently remove from the water.

And remember, save some of the pasta water for your sauce. Enjoy!