Char Siu

Char siu, pronounced char-swee, is one of those meats that you would normally find hanging in the window at the Chinese market, along with the whole roasted ducks and salt-roasted chickens. However, of the three, char siu, or Chinese barbecue pork, is by far the easiest to make at home. Of course, we cannot duplicate the traditional Chinese technique, and in some cases would not want to. For example, not only are they hung in special ovens, they get their traditional ruby red color by being marinated in curing salt. Curing salt is a special kind of salt with nitrites and nitrates. Oddly, ketchup makes a perfect substitute for these salts, providing the ruby red color without the nitrates. Not only can curing salts be difficult to find, too many nitrates and nitrites can be a harmful thing. Besides, after having tried both methods, the ketchup seems to produce the better result. By far, the best recipe that I've found is from America's Test Kitchen: the Best International Recipe cookbook (p.532), though it still needed to be modified to meet our (FODMAP) dietary needs.

Traditional recipes cut the pork butt into long strips, but smaller and shorter strips seem to work best at home. One option is to buy the precut country-style short ribs (which is cut from the pork butt roast). This may eliminate a few steps and make for easier preparation, but they will be slightly more chewy and more dry than strips cut from a pork butt roast. With the bone removed, cut the roast lengthwise into 2-1/2 inch strips (resembling the precut country-style ribs). If it is any consolation, the "pork butt" is actually taken from the pig's front shoulder, and may even be labeled as such at your supermarket.

Serving: 6
Time: 20 min (prep); 4 hr (marinating); 1-1/4 hr (cooking)

1  (4 pound) boneless pork butt, cut into strips (see above)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup soy sauce (gluten free)
6  tablespoons hoisin sauce (FODMAP hoisin sauce)
1/4 cup rice wine (Shaohsing wine) or dry sherry
2  tablespoons ginger, grated
2  cloves garlic, minced (non-FODMAP, omit or substitute with minced garlic greens)
1  tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1  teaspoon five-spice powder (FODMAP Five Spice)
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 cup ketchup (no high fructose corn syrup)
1/3 cup honey (non-FODMAP, substitute with maple syrup)

1.  Using a fork, prick the pork strips 10 to 12 times on each side. This will allow the marinade to flavor the meat more thoroughly. American's Test Kitchen states that this enables the marinating time to be reduced to 30 minutes. This may be true if you are in a hurry, but if you have the time plan on still marinating the meat for 4 hours. For now, place the meat in a large zip-lock bag and set aside.

2.  Combine all of the ingredients into a bowl, with the exception of the ketchup and honey (or maple syrup), and mix well. Reserve 1/2 cup of the marinade for basting. Pour the remainder of the marinade over the meat in the zip-lock bag. Remove the air from the bag and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

3.  Meanwhile, combine the ketchup and honey (or maple syrup) in a saucepan, together with the 1/2 cup reserved marinade. Heat until syrupy and well mixed.

4.  Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the strips of meat on a baking sheet with a wire rack. Pour 1/2 cup water in the bottom of the pan. Tightly cover the entire pan with foil and roast the pork for 20 minutes.

5.  Remove the foil cover and cook for another 25 minutes.

6.  Turn the oven to broil and broil the pork, still on the medium rack, until evenly browned (7-9 minutes). Then brush the pork with the reserved ketchup-marinade mixture and broil for an additional 3-5 minutes. The pork will look turn to a deep mahogany color and look as though it were burning.

7.  Flip the meat and repeat step 6, broiling for 7-9 minutes, then baste and broil for an additional 3-5 minutes.

8.  Let the meat sit for 10 minutes, then slice and serve.

Ricotta Pie

For me, memories are forged by good food. I'll recall an event or place when reminded of certain flavors or aromas. And I suspect this is true for most people. Our family memories and traditions have as much to do with food as with the people with which we share it. In most cultures, food and holidays go hand in hand. Although the entire family may be gathered together, it doesn't feel like Christmas without the ham and sweet potatoes with gooey marshmallows, or Thanksgiving without the traditional turkey and stuffing.

But what does Easter feel like? For many of us, our traditions, and therefore our memories, don't go much deeper than the chocolate bunny or sickeningly sweet marshmallow peeps that we would rather forget than remember. Not so for the Italians. They might have peeps, I don't really know, but for many ricotta pie is a much more memorable Easter tradition. Who remembers mom giving them peeps? But mom's ricotta pie, that's a memory worth passing down to your kids.

Ricotta pie is a great after dinner treat or even a welcomed addition to the breakfast table. It is simple to make, easily stored, and served cold. While it is usually made with your average store bought ricotta, I cannot express to you how much more creamy and smooth it is with homemade ricotta, resembling the texture of mascarpone or a light and refreshing cheese cake. The homemade ricotta is well worth the additional time and work, especially if this is a treat and memory that only comes around once a year.

Serving: One 9-inch pie

Gluten Free Crust: single crust

   We recommend using Williams-Sonoma's gluten free piecrust mix,
       following the ingredient directions on the box.
   In addition:
     1  teaspoon orange peel
     1  teaspoon lemon peel

Traditional Crust: single crust
 
   1-1/4 cups all purpose flour
   1/3 cup sugar
   3/4 teaspoon orange peel
   3/4 teaspoon lemon peel
   1/3 teaspoon salt
   1/3 teaspoon baking powder
   1/3 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 1/4 inch cubes
   1  large egg

1.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a mixer with a flat beater, combine flour, sugar, orange and lemon peel, salt, and baking powder. Mix for 1 minute.

2.  Slowly add butter and mix on medium-low until coarse meal forms, about the size of peas.

3.  Add the eggs and mix until moist clumps form and dough begins to pull together, about 1 minute.

4.  Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead to combine well, about 1 minute. Roll out into an 11 inch round about 1/8 inch thick. Using the rolling pin, transfer the dough to a 9 inch pie dish and gently press into the dish. Trim the edges.


Filling:

   1  16-ounce container of whole milk ricotta (2 cups)
   3  ounces cream cheese, room temperature
   1  tablespoon cornstarch
   1  teaspoon vanilla
   1/2 cup sugar
   1-1/2 teaspoons orange peel
   1  teaspoon lemon peel
   2  large eggs

1.  Using an electric mixer, beat the ricotta, cream cheese, cornstarch, and vanilla in a large bowl.

2.  Add the sugar, orange peel, lemon peel, and eggs, and beat until well mixed.

3.  Transfer the filling into the dough-lined pie pan. Bake until golden and puffed, about 1 hour. Keep an eye on the edge of the crust, covering it with foil if necessary, so that it does not burn. Cool completely. As it cools, the puffing will go down. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Braciole

Braciola (plural braciole) is an Italian dish made of thinly sliced beef, stuffed and rolled, seared and cooked in its own juices. It is traditionally stuffed with bread crumbs and cheese, but there is no "one way" to do it. Changing the cheese, or adding eggplant or prosciutto, can drastically change the taste. With a little creativity, this dish will never get old.

If you have the time and forethought, purchase your meat in advance and marinade in red wine for up to five days. Not only will this add a nice flavor, the enzymes in the wine will help to tenderize the meat. This was my first attempt at braciole, and if I were to do it all over again (and I will!), I would pound the flank steak quite a bit thinner, providing a greater surface area for the stuffing. Overall, this would have produced a more tender and flavorful dish. Nonetheless, "regrets" aside, you will not regret trying this dish!

This may be served as a side or as a main course. It is often served with salad, boiled potatoes, or as we have done, fresh pasta. Enjoy.

Serving: 4-5
Time: Prep (40 minutes) Cooking (1 hour 45 minutes)

1-1/2 pound flank steak, (NOTE: It is best when pounded
  thin and tenderized in red wine for 5 days)
Butcher's twine
1/2 cup dried Italian bread crumbs (gluten free)
1  garlic clove, minced (non-FODMAP, omit or substitute 1/2 teaspoon ginger)
2/3 cup Pecorino Romano, grated
1/3 cup Provolone, grated
2  tablespoons Italian parsley leaves, chopped
4  tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
1  cup dry wine (rec. an Italian Pinot Grigio)
3-1/4 cups simple Marinara sauce (w/o tomato paste, garlic, or onion)

1.  Braciola is usually made with thin cuts of meat. Therefore, depending on the thickness of the flank steak, it may need to be pounded thin with a meat mallet. Try to retain a rollable shape. In order to tenderize the meat, marinade in red wine for up to five days in advance.

2.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

3.  Mix together the bread crumbs, ginger, cheese, parsley, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Set aside.

4.  Lay the flank steak on a flat surface and pat dry with a paper towel. Spread the bread crumb mixture evenly over the top of the steak. Then gently roll the steak like a carpet and tie it with butcher's twine to hold it tightly together.

5.  Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a large ovenproof pan. Sear the braciola until all sides are nicely browned, about 10 minutes. After it is nicely seared, add the wine to deglaze the bottom of the pan. Add the marinara and bring to a simmer. Coat the braciola with the marinara sauce.

6.  Lightly cover the pan with foil and continue cooking in the oven. Cook for 1 hour, basting and rotating the braciola every 20 minutes. Then uncover the pan and cook an additional 30 minutes, occasionally basting the meat to prevent it from drying out.

7.  After it is cooked and tender, remove the braciola from the sauce and cut into 1/2 inch thick slices. Cut it crossways and diagonally, the way you would cut slices off a baguette. Serve with its own sauce.

Recommended Wine

Either a nice Pinot Grigio (white) or good Cabernet Sauvignon (red).

Kalbi Beef (Korean BBQ Ribs)

Most authentic Korean, Thai, and Vietnamese restaurants will offer Kalbi beef on their menu. It is a tender and richly flavored beef short rib, often served with rice, a garlic fish sauce or a chile lime sauce, and perhaps a fresh papaya salad (as shown above). In my own experimenting with this recipe, three things have proven to be important. First, the quality of meat, particularly the amount of marbling in the meat, is essential in order to ensure tender ribs. You may request that your butcher cut the ribs from the fattier portion of the chuck end of the beef ribs. Request a 1/2 inch thick "flanken" cut, which will indicate to your butcher that you desire the ribs to be cut into 1/2 inch strips across the bone. On occasion, you may find them already cut and packaged in the meat department of your local market. However, make sure that they are sufficiently marbled and the correct thickness. We have personally had the best luck with black angus beef.

Secondly, it is important to allow the ribs to marinade overnight or for 24 hours. This is important both for flavor and in order to tenderize the meat. The acidity of the Asian pear accelerates the tenderizing compounds found in the the soy sauce, but it requires sufficient time to be effective.

Thirdly, Kalbi beef is the best when it is slightly charred on the outside, caramelizing the sugars in the marinade. Because the ribs are only 1/2 inch thick and tend to cook very quickly, high heat is necessary to quickly sear the beef. This may be done on a very hot grill, on a wire rack under the broiler, or in a cast iron grill pan. The latter two options may require that you open up a few windows to let the smoke escape.

Serving: 6

Ribs

3-1/2 pounds Korean style short ribs (highly marbled)
1-1/2 cup brown sugar
1  cup low sodium soy sauce (gluten free)
1/2 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup water (more as needed)
2  tablespoons ginger
3  medium to large limes, squeezed
2  tablespoons sesame oil (preferably dark)
3  tablespoons lemongrass, finely grated
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, ground

Optional Sauces

   Thai Chili Sauce
 
   4  garlic cloves, minced (non-FODMAP)
   8  red or green Thai chili peppers,
       finely chopped (may substitute
       with crushed red pepper flakes)
   1/3 cup fish sauce
   1/2 fresh lime juice
   3  tablespoons sugar
   2  tablespoons green onion, thinly
       sliced (green parts)

   Vietnamese Sauce

   3  garlic cloves, minced (non-FODMAP)
   1/3 cup fish sauce
   1/2 cup water
   1/4 cup carrot, thinly julienned

   FODMAP Sauce


   2 limes, squeezed
   2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce (gluten free)
   1 tablespoon rice vinegar
   1 teaspoon sesame oil
   2 tablespoons maple syrup


1.  Rinse the beef short ribs in cold water in order to remove any small shards of bone, then pat dry with a paper towel.

2.  Place the ribs and the brown sugar in a large zip-lock bag. Shake and shift around the bag until the ribs are evenly coated in the sugar. Set aside for at least 10 minutes.

3.  Mix the rest of the ingredients together in a bowl and pour over the ribs in the zip-lock bag. Add enough water to cover ribs. Remove all of the air from the bag and seal it up. This will pull the liquid upward and allow the marinade to fully cover the ribs. Place a piece of tape over the zip-lock to prevent air from slowly leaking into the bag. Marinade in the refrigerator for 24 hours, occasionally shifting the contents of the bag.

4.  If you are using one of the additional dipping sauces, mix ingredients and let the sauce stand for at least 15 minutes in order to allow the flavors to fully blend. Serve the sauce in a bowl or in small ramekins at the table.

5.  After 24 hours, remove the ribs from the marinade. Place on a very hot grill, turning only once, 3-4 minutes on each side. They are best served immediately, but they can be cooked in advance and warmed on a baking sheet with a rack in the oven. Serve with rice (preferably sticky rice).

Roasted Carrot Purée

What comes to mind when you think of cooked mashed carrots? Me too, but this is nothing like that! This is more like your thanksgiving sweet potatoes with roasted marshmallows, without having to add either the sugar or the marshmallows. By roasting the carrots its natural sugars caramelize, creating a new texture and flavor. This works great with any dish that you would normally pair with mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes. And with the added bonus that carrots are cheap, who can pass up trying it?

Serving: 4 (about 2 cups)
Time: 1 hour

2  pounds whole carrots, peeled
2  tablespoons olive oil
4  tablespoons butter
1  tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar (optional)
Salt

1.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2.  Make sure to use whole carrots. There is something about the processing that prevents the so-called baby carrots from caramelizing. Cut the thicker carrots in half lengthwise, leaving the skinnier carrots whole. Spread out on a baking sheet and cover with 2 tablespoons olive oil.

3.  Bake for about 1 hour or until the carrots are both tender and slightly blackened on the bottom and edges.

4.  In a food processor, combine the carrots and butter and purée until smooth. Add 1 tablespoon of well aged balsamic vinegar, and taste. Add more, a teaspoon at a time, if necessary. This was suggested to me by a friend. . . a friend that is so humble that she would not want me to give her credit. Nonetheless, it was a great suggestion. Another way to incorporate the vinegar (a good vinegar) is to drizzle a small amount on top. Nonetheless, with or without the vinegar, the carrots have enough merit of their own. Salt to taste and enjoy.

Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup)

It's true, it is far more convenient to eat pho at a local Vietnamese restaurant, but there is something rewarding about being able to make it at home. It is especially rewarding if you share in my predicament of living in an area devoid of Vietnamese cuisine. Homemade pho becomes, not only an option, but the only option.

Pho is pronounced "fuh," and though its derivation is uncertain, it refers to a very distinct Vietnamese beef noodle soup full of fresh and fragrant ingredients. Though I have seen, and even attempted, more simplistic recipes, they often seem to be missing the complexity of traditional pho. This recipe, though more laborious, represents a more authentic approach. With a few exceptions and simplifications, the following recipe was borrowed from Andrea Nguyen's Into the Vietnamese Kitchen.

For a complete list of ingredients, make sure to scroll down to each section: Broth, Bowls, and Additional Garnish.

Serving: 8

Broth

Chubby 4-inch piece ginger, unpeeled
1-1/2 stalks celery (low-FODMAP)
5-6  pounds beef leg bones, in 2-3 inch pieces
6  quarts water
5  whole star anise (40 robust points)
6  whole cloves
3-inch cinnamon stick
1-1/2 tablespoons salt
1/4 cup fish sauce
1-inch chunk yellow rock sugar (about 1.5 ounces)

1.  Place the ginger directly on the cooking grate of a medium-hot charcoal or gas grill or a gas stove with a medium flame, or on a medium hot burner of an electric stove. Let the skin burn (if you're working indoors, turn on the exhaust fan and open a window), using tongs to rotate the ginger. After 15 minutes, the ginger will have softened slightly and become sweetly fragrant. There may even be some bubbling. You do not have to blacken the entire surface. When amply charred, remove from the heat and let cool.

2.  To achieve a clear broth, you must first parboil and rinse the beef bones. Put them in a stockpot (about 12-quart capacity) and add cold water just to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil vigorously for 2-3 minutes to release the impurities. Dump the bones and water into the sink (make sure it is clean), and then rinse the bones with water to wash off any clinging residue. Quickly scrub the stockpot clean and return the bones to the pot. Pour in the 6 quarts of water, bring to a boil over high heat, and lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Use a ladle or large, shallow spoon to skim off any scum that rises to the top.

3.  Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler, paring knife, or the edge of a teaspoon to remove the ginger skin. Hold it under warm water to wash off any blackened bits. Halve the ginger lengthwise and bruise lightly with the broad side of a cleaver or chef's knife.

4.  Add the ginger, celery, star anise, cloves, cinnamon stick, salt, fish sauce, and rock sugar to the stock. Cook for 3 hours, uncovered, adjusting the heat if needed to maintain a simmer.

5.  Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve (or a coarse-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth) positioned over a pot. Discard any remaining solids. Use a ladle to skim off as much fat from the top of the broth as you like. (To make this easier, you can cool the broth, refrigerate overnight, lift off the solidified fat, and then reheat before continuing.) Taste and adjust the flavor with salt, fish sauce, and rock sugar. There should be about 4 quarts (16 cups) broth.


Bowls

1-1/2  pounds small flat rice noodles (1-2 bags)
1  pound sirloin (see below)
3-4  scallions, thinly sliced (green parts only)
1/3  cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1.  Freeze the raw sirloin for 15 minutes, then slice it across the grain into pieces 1/16 inch thick. If you prefer, you may ask your local butcher to slice it paper-thin. However, you may still need to pound the meat thinner with a meat tenderizer.  Trim off any remaining gristle, as this becomes chewy when cooked in the broth. Furthermore, there are additional (non-FODMAP) meat options, such as the tradition Vietnamese beef meatball. However, you may need to visit your local Asian market in order to find them. Cut the meatballs in half. Set all of the meat aside.


3.  In a bowl or baking dish, cover the noodles in boiling water and let them soak for 5-15 minutes. Do not boil them as you would normal pasta or else they will turn to mush. Let them soak in the hot water and check them often until they are pliable and opaque. They should not be chewy.

4.  Bring the broth to a simmer to ensure that the raw beef will be adequately cooked in the broth. Fill each [large] bowl with a portion of the noodles. (If the noodles have been drained and sat for any length of time, they tend to stick together and slightly harden. In order to separate and loosen them, dunk the noodles into boiling water.) Top each bowl with the raw beef and some scallions and cilantro. Ladle about 2 cups simmering broth into each bowl and serve immediately.


Additional Garnish

3  cups (1/2 pound) bean sprouts (low-FODMAP)
10-12  sprigs Thai Basil
2  limes, cut into wedges
1  yellow onion, sliced paper-thin (non-FODMAP)
1 Jalapeño, sliced
hoisin sauce (FODMAP hoisin sauce)
Sriracha chile sauce (non-FODMAP)

1.  Thinly slice the onion and soak in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2.  Gather all of the garnishes together on a plate and serve with the soup. Traditionally, these ingredients are added to the pho while at the table in order to preserve their freshness.

Bean sprouts can be very difficult to preserve for any length of time. In order to preserve their freshness, place a shallow layer in a baking dish and cover with water. Change the water daily and they should keep in the refrigerator for several days. 

3.  Add the hoisin and chile sauce to each bowl to taste. Most hoisin sauces (most sauces!) add wheat starch and therefore are not suitable for those who are gluten free. The best gluten free option that I've found is the brand Dynasty, sold at Walmart. However, all brands add garlic or onion and so if you are on a FODMAP diet you will need to make your own hoisin sauce (optional).

Jamaican Jerk Pork

Jamaican cuisine is a Caribbean culinary phenomenon. Jamaica as we know it today was largely populated by African slaves who brought many of their indigenous dishes with them. But the culinary history gets even more complex with the later influence of a new wave of indentured servants coming from East India, China, and the Middle East to work on the plantations. Moreover, as many of slaves tended to the culinary needs of the English and Spanish plantation owners, noticeable English and Spanish contributions to Jamaica's food history developed. As a result, today's Jamaican cuisine has become a culinary hybrid of numerous cultural influences.

Jerk is one dish that has become famously associated with Jamaican cuisine. It is thought that it was originated by English and Spanish slaves who fled to the mountainous regions of Jamaica. As they hunted the wild hogs, they devised a method of preserving them with pimento, peppers, and ash. From this practice arose what we know as Jamaican jerk barbecue. All you need is an ice-cold Red Stipe Jamaican lager and some good reggae music.

Jerk pork is traditionally served roasted yams and/or "festival bread". Festival bread is similar to a crispy sweetened cornmeal naan. However, rice and a mango chutney would go equally well.

Serving:

3-4 pound boneless pork shoulder, butterflied, attempting to leave
    the fat evenly distributed throughout.
5  bunches of scallions, finely chopped (green parts only)
3  large cloves of garlic, minced (non-FODMAP; either omit or substitute
    a teaspoon minced ginger)
3  Scotch bonnet peppers (or Habanero), minced
2  large sprigs of thyme
4  tablespoons allspice
2  tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1.  With the exception of the pork, combine all of the ingredients. Slowly add water until it forms a loose paste.

2.  Reserve some of the jerk marinade as a condiment. Coat the pork with the remaining sauce and let it marinade in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

3.  Cook the pork until it is cooked throughout and slightly charred on the outside. There are several different options for achieving this.

Barbecue

Soak some wood chips for 30 minutes. Pimento is traditionally used, but any wood without a strong flavor is fine (not Mesquite). Meanwhile, prepare an outdoor barbecue as usual. When the coals have become ready, add some of the soaked wood. Place the meat on the grill and cover. Cook slowly for about 2-1/2 hours, turning several times throughout. The overall time will depend on the size of the pork shoulder and the temperature of the grill. In the end, it should be cooked throughout and slightly charred on the outside. Take the meat off the grill and let it sit for at least 15 minutes before carving. Chop the meat into bite-size pieces and serve.

Smoker

See above for "barbecue". If necessary, finish cooking the pork on a hot grill or under a broiler to achieve a slightly charred exterior.

Oven

If smoking is an option, the meat may also be cold smoked in advance for 2 hours, either at home or by your local butcher, and then finished off in the oven. If smoking the meat is not an option, the dish will still be well worth the effort. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Set the meat on a broiling pan with a rack, so that the meat will be able to crisp slightly on all sides. Cook for 1-–1-1/2 hours, depending upon the size of the pork shoulder, turning halfway through. If necessary, finish cooking the meat under the broiler until it is slightly charred on both sides. Remove the meat from the oven and let it sit for at least 15 minutes before carving. Chop the meat into bite-size pieces and serve.